The city consists of dozens of hills, each forming a separate neighborhood with a unique personality. The common theme is lots of colorful mansions, steep stair cases, street art, narrow alleyways and century old funiculars. This mix has earned Valpo world heritage recognition and somehow complements the city's otherwise gritty (read dirty) feel.
For Cindy, one of the highlights of her time in Valpo was the best coffee she'd had since she'd left Melbourne, which appropriately enough came from a cafe called Melbourne that was owned by a Aussie and featured plenty of photos of our former home. We also enjoyed a really nice dinner, complete with a spectacular view of the city, with a Swiss friend we met on our salt flats tour.
While in Valpo we visited its more glitzy (but less interesting) neighbor, Viña del Mar, which features more modern buildings and white sand beaches (but not much else).
Given the time of year and Cindy's general dislike of all things cold, we decided not to go further south to Patagonia (which admittedly offers many of Chile's main attractions). Instead we headed across the Andes to Argentina knowing that we'll have to come back to the south of Chile another time.